The definite place where fans of relivering vintage Scaleys share their passion and present their wonderful car builts or simple repaints.

Scratch Building thread is of particular interest.


You will find at SCALEXTRIC CARS RESTORATION not only Scalextric car parts and track accessories, but also Scalextric catalogues from 1960.

Reliverying old Scaleys : quite rewarding !!

Today, many enthusiasts are keen to revisit their old Scaleys and relivery them more realistically, trying to represent real cars, to continue to fully enjoy them, although in a different manner Late better than never. No question of course to make them hyper-detailed precision models, but most often a good cleaning, some paint work if necessary and water-slide decals accurately replicating the decorations of original cars are enough to totally relook the model and make them much more realistic. The challenge here is to find the best effort/result compromise.

As perfectly stated by a Slotforum member,
«it's amazing how good these old Scalextric cars can be made to look. Shame Scalextric couldn't be bothered at the time !».

Home-made water-slide decals play a major role in this restoration process and make the difference as far as the end result is concerned, as they can replicate very accurately real cars. A real source of intense satisfaction for the enthusiast.

slot retro forum
Le nouveau forum en français des collectionneurs de voitures de circuits électriques vintage
c'est ici


Inkjet waterside REISSORG® decals are printed on quality A4 decal paper sheets, available with an either clear (i.e. transparent) or white film, as appropriate. This film, on which decals are printed, slightly glued, is backed by a background paper sheet.

The main limitation of conventional inkjet or laser printers is that they can NOT print white. Because of that, white colour on decals can by no way come from the printer, but can only result from either film transparency on white / light coloured body shells or white film onto solid colour / darker shells (or shell specific areas).

As first consequence is that decals intended for white / light coloured cars have to be printed on clear backgrounded decal paper whereas those intended for solid colour / darker shells will have to be printed on white backgrounded decal paper. Cars with several colors - the red/white two-tones Marlboro BRMs for example - will require two distinct decal sheets, respectively clear and white backgrounded.

A second consequence is that if we want to produce white letters on a dark model background (the Iso Rivolta Marlboro below as example), the all around area on the decal film has to be given the same colour as the exact one on the model. Matching successfully the all around colour produced by the decal maker with the paint job of the modeller is obviously the major challenge here.

REISSORG® sheets printed on white backing paper are identified with a W (white) on a green circle and have a light blue background. Those printed on clear backing paper are identified with a C (clear) on a yellow circle and left with a transparent background. All our decal sets receive 3 coats of acrylic clear lacquer.

pkfz Screen Shot 2015-10-11 at 17.24.19         pkfzScreen Shot 2015-10-11 at 17.26.44
             WHITE                                                 CLEAR

That said, clear or white decal paper only affects the way decals have to be cut out.

Cutting out decals :

Home-made decals are not pre-cut and therefore should be first cut out around carefully, with a pair of sharp scissors or a craft knife, as close to their edges as possible, especially for decals on white paper, with no light blue background being left (as it would be visible). In order to ease the cutting out process, REISSORG® decal images on W decal paper are printed over or bordered with the expected colour of the car body when necessary, as shown on the few examples below.



In particular, the racing number roundels on white-backed paper (such as the number 14 on the right-hand example above, intended for a red bodywork) are always purposedly circled with a coloured border : carefully cut out along the border, rather close to its internal edge, so that the roundel remains round while no light-blue background color left outside the border.

Dealing with clear-backed decal paper is easier and more forgiving as any surrounding excess will not be seen as it will appear clear.

A dotted line grouping several decal pieces indicates that you can keep them grouped when cutting them off (inside the dotted line) and applying them onto the body as a single piece. Whenever possible, make your corners rounded and not square, the decal will better lay on your model body shell. For the biggest decal pieces, it is always recommended to first position them in place onto the model body for a size check as
they may need to be adjusted.

Applying decals :

Firstly, it is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. So, it's always advisable to apply a coat of clear varnish onto your body shell before applying decals.

Briefly dip the decal piece into a bowl of cold water for a few seconds (no longer than 5 seconds) and place it on a clean paper towel or a flat sponge slightly dampened with water, image upside, to remove any excess water (keeping the decal soaking too long in the water would tend to dissolve the glue at the back of the decal).

After a few moments (20-30 seconds most often), and a check with your fingers that the decal has loosened and is ready to slide off the backing paper, apply it onto your model and pull the backing paper carefully from under the decal film. Use a soft paint brush rather than your finger to gently move the decal around and position it correctly. Note that a single spot of dishwashing liquid in your bowl of water will help the decal to be moved off the backing paper and onto the model as well.

Once applied, use a lint free cloth to dab any excess water off and work out any air bubbles. Setting solutions can be used when necessary.

Finally, if you wish to seal your finished body shell to protect it from fading or scratching when manipulating the car, leave it dry for 24 hours before spraying an acrylic clear lacquer, such as KRYLON Crystal Clear for example. A light coat of car wax applied with a soft cotton cloth may also be an alternative

Lastly, should a decal tend to not stick well to the shell come unstuck at some point in time, no panic, just take a stick of white glue (ex : UHU stick) slightly moistened and gently slide it onto the verso of the decal, without removing it from the car body. Another way is to use a decal fix solution or even Klear.

Screen Shot 2014-08-26 at 14.10.55And now, fully enjoy your model !

How to store and display my cars dust-free ?

Answer : Just take up to chocolate "Rochers Ferrero" and use their nice crystal boxes (smaller model) as stackable display case boxes.



Stray from the beaten track : a tribute to Lou BRERO

You may have never heard of the Franco-Californian Lou BRERO and his famous D-Jag. Lou was a big name in the American road racing in the mid-fifties, and his car was particularly recognizable. Discover the story here and then no doubt that you will feel like to have Lou BRERO and his so much evocative D-type in your Scalextric team.
Offer your D-Jag a second life with this quite original and authentic racing livery !