REISSORG..COM Relivering vintage Scaleys

RELIVERING YOUR FORD 3 LITERS (F3L) P68
SCALEXTRIC REF C18

(Click on pics to enlarge)



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Several good reasons for relivering your vintage Ford 3 l C18 Scalextric : While the original body color and decoration are desperately unrealistic, the aerodynamical shapes of the Ford 3 l, designed by Len Bailey, a Ford Research engineer, and built by Alan Mann Racing (AMR) are rather well rendered by the Scalextric model (even better than the Airfix model in my view).



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The P68's first outing was the 1968 BOAC 500 at Brands Hatch on Aprit 7th, 1968. The works car #34, absolutely splendid in its red, with a wide golden longitudinal stripe, AMR livery, did a quite encouraging race in the hands of Mike Spence and Bruce McLaren. Unfortunately it could not finish the race, due to a rubber driveshaft coupling failure, but for its début it had shown promising performances on the track (Bruce McLaren having even taken the lead of the race for some time). It is this P68 #34 that I've chosen as the basis for my restoration. The older of us certainly remember this four-view drawing of the P68 #34 by Ray Godart (left) published in the first issue of Autos Schemas, in 1968.

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This P68 #34 will also illustrate the official poster of the following1969 edition of the BOAC 500 race, a race that, in passing, Denny Hulme and Franck Gardner will also dispute with an AMR P68 (#58) fitted with a large, high-mounted rear wing aimed at reducing rear-end lift at speed. It didn't finish the race either (engine failure).




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So, let's go !


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Step 1 : Disassembly your model. Scalextric made this quite straightforward. Use a small screwdriver to carefully separate the driver platform from the shell without damaging the two tenons of the platform.








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Step 2 : If the car has been painted, it will need the paint stripping off first. Otherwise, remove all the original stickers. This may be a tricky step, as the Scalextric stickers are quite resistant... As a last resort, impregnate the stickers with white spirit and scratch carefully with... your nail. In any case, take your time and be patient. Then, wash the body in soapy water.






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Step 3 : The paint job is quite conventional and familiar to those of you who use or used to mount plastic kits. First spray a coat of primer before painting the body red (2-3 coats for a better finish).








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Step 4 : While your body is drying, it's the right time to change the colour of the driver's helmet if you wish to do so (herer metallic grey for Bruce MacLaren). Also, give the gloves of the driver a touch of orange paint to bring them out nicely. It's also the right time to paint the wheels : spokes in red, then rims and hubs in silver.







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Step 5 : The shell being supposed dry, water-slide decals can be applied. Generally, whatever you purchase them from another modelist or produce them yourself on your inkjet or laser printer, they will be printed on white (ie not clear) background decal paper given the dark color of the car body and will not be pre-cut. So, keep in mind that the most important thing here is to cut off your decals very carefully, close to the edges, using a pair of precision scissors.




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Step 6 : Reassemble the model. You can now admire and enjoy your NEW Ford 3 Liters P68 slotcar !










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